Dragonflies are Good Insects--They Eat Mosquitos

Dragonflies among beneficial insects

Bill Sevier: Ask a Master Gardener  

Saturday, August 27, 2016

Q: I have a pond and there are a number of dragonflies on the plants around it. They often hover over the water dipping their tails into the water. Are they harmful? N.D. Tulsa

A: These insects are not harmful, indeed they are grouped into the category of “good insects,” and they eat the “bad” insect pests.

There are several common names for these insects, which are related to myths. One is “snake doctor,” commonly used in the South. It is related to the myth that they are able to repair injuries of snakes. There are other names, such as “devils needle” and “water witch,” but the proper name is dragonfly. The name dragonfly comes from a belief that they are reincarnation of dragons. If you look at a dragonfly up close, one can see where the “dragon” part of the myth came from.

Dragonflies are classified in the order Odonata and have been with us for millions of years. There are fossils showing evidence of some dragonfly species with wingspans up to 30 inches across. The largest living dragonfly has a wingspan of about 7 inches and locally the largest has about a 4-inch span.

The adult female dragonfly lays eggs either in water or plant material near water. The eggs hatch into nymphs, and they end up in water where they may live for up to 5 years. The nymphs are large, often 1-2 inches in length; they feed on other insect larvae (especially mosquitoes) and sometimes on tadpoles and small fish fry. After maturing, they leave the water and develop their adult form.

Adult dragonflies live weeks to months and spend their time reproducing or feeding. They are fast and agile fliers that are able to catch other insects in the air. They catch and eat large numbers of mosquitoes, flying ants and termites, moths, butterflies and other insects.

Also in the Odonata order and seen in the same environment as dragonflies are their cousins, damselflies. These are generally smaller and at rest usually fold their wings over their back, rather than keeping them outstretched as dragonflies do. Many are blueish iridescent. Their feeding and reproductive behaviors are similar to dragonflies. Two damselflies are commonly seen coupled while flying as a part of reproduction behavior.

The dragonflies, like all beneficial insects, need to be protected. Their status is being threatened by loss of habitat and use of insecticides. Do your part in caring for these insects by avoiding indiscriminate use of any insecticide. They, in turn, will help you keep down the population of mosquitoes.

Garden tips

• Always follow directions on the labels of synthetic and natural pesticide products. Labels will always list where the product may be used and which pest it is certified to cover. If you spray pesticides, do it early in the morning or late in the evening after bees have returned to their colony.

• If your tomatoes are too tall and gangly, now is a good time to prune the top of the plants by as much as 1/3 to ½, depending on the plant. This will stimulate new limb growth and new fruit production after it cools.

• Reseeding fescue is best done from mid-September through mid-October. If you plan on reseeding, begin scouting for good seed. There is no “best” variety. Purchase a fescue blend of 3 or more varieties, with or without Kentucky bluegrass. Read the label on the seed bag. A good blend will have 0.01 percent or less of undesirable “other crop” seeds.

landscaping Slopes

Master Gardener: Landscaping on a slope is manageable with thoughtful design

Bill Sevier:  Ask a Master Gardener   

Saturday, August 20, 2016  

Q: I am trying to control water run-off and erosion on a slope in my front yard next to the street. Is there a best plant and a best way to do this? W.W., Sand Springs

A: The short answer is no. There are no easy generic solutions for slopes, and the solutions that are effective are not the same for each slope type.

Inclined areas of landscapes can have devastating erosive damage with extensive soil loss. So it is important to do what you can to stabilize these areas to simply prevent loss of your topsoil, if nothing else.

All slopes are not equal, they vary by degree of slope, soil texture and fertility, as well as amounts of sunlight received. All these factors, as well as cost and amount of effort required on your part, must be considered when creating a landscaping plan. One approach is costly and labor intensive. This consists of building tiers of various materials step-wise with drainage to handle the water flow.

When starting with bare soil, such as often found with new houses before any landscaping or planting, temporary measures can be used. These can include such things as blankets of burlap, jute, biodegradable plastic, or a temporary nurse crop of rapidly growing grass such as annual rye grass to stabilize the soil. All of these are biodegradable.

What to plant permanently on the slope to prevent erosion is the main decision to make. There are no “best” plants to use. Lawn grasses, such as Bermuda and fescue, are not the best choices; they are not nearly as effective as a mixture of perennials, shrubs, native plants and various groundcovers.

Most of the native grasses and forbs (wildflowers) originally found in the prairies in the Midwest have deep and tough roots, making them excellent choices for erosion prevention on a sunny slope. There is a long list of these natives that includes wildflowers such as coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, yarrows and many others. Non-native ornamentals like hostas, ferns and lilies can also be used, some for shaded areas.

Many types of groundcovers are beneficial, native and non-native. Most are evergreen and some spread vigorously. Plants such as vinca minor, liriope, Mondo grass, wintercreeper euonymus, ajuga and English ivy all are spreaders that tolerate shade and sun. These may have invasive problems if not controlled, but their hardiness and deep roots may be exactly what is needed on a hillside.

Low-growing shrubs are also useful. Short shrubs found in the juniper family, low-growing sumacs such as the cutleaf and Gro-low varieties are worth considering. There are varieties of forsythia that are short and might be considered as well as others.

After planting all your choices, add a thick layer of mulch between them. This will help keep out weeds and conserve water.

Remember, there are many more plants that would be practical on a slope. Decide what you have in terms of soil and sunshine, make a plan as to design and plant selection. Most slopes are manageable with thoughtful design.

Garden tips

§  August is a good month to start a fall vegetable garden. Bush beans, cucumbers and summer squash can be replanted for another crop. Beets, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, lettuce and other cool-season crops can also be planted at this time.

§  Discontinue deadheading roses by mid-August to help initiate winter hardiness.

§  Irrigated warm-season lawns such as Bermuda and zoysia can be fertilized once again; apply 1 pound N/1,000 square feet this month. Do not fertilize these grasses after the end of August. Do not fertilize tall fescue lawns in summer; fertilize in late September after it cools and again in November.

§  This time of the year is generally not the best time to prune, but if you have damage to trees and shrubs due to storms, prune out the damage now.

§  During peak heat of summer is not the best time to use post-emergent herbicides for broad-leaved weeds. For these herbicides to be effective, the weeds needs to be growing. Weeds will start to grow when it cools in early fall.

landscaping Slopes

Master Gardener: Landscaping on a slope is manageable with thoughtful design

Bill Sevier:  Ask a Master Gardener   

Saturday, August 20, 2016  

Q: I am trying to control water run-off and erosion on a slope in my front yard next to the street. Is there a best plant and a best way to do this? W.W., Sand Springs

A: The short answer is no. There are no easy generic solutions for slopes, and the solutions that are effective are not the same for each slope type.

Inclined areas of landscapes can have devastating erosive damage with extensive soil loss. So it is important to do what you can to stabilize these areas to simply prevent loss of your topsoil, if nothing else.

All slopes are not equal, they vary by degree of slope, soil texture and fertility, as well as amounts of sunlight received. All these factors, as well as cost and amount of effort required on your part, must be considered when creating a landscaping plan. One approach is costly and labor intensive. This consists of building tiers of various materials step-wise with drainage to handle the water flow.

When starting with bare soil, such as often found with new houses before any landscaping or planting, temporary measures can be used. These can include such things as blankets of burlap, jute, biodegradable plastic, or a temporary nurse crop of rapidly growing grass such as annual rye grass to stabilize the soil. All of these are biodegradable.

What to plant permanently on the slope to prevent erosion is the main decision to make. There are no “best” plants to use. Lawn grasses, such as Bermuda and fescue, are not the best choices; they are not nearly as effective as a mixture of perennials, shrubs, native plants and various groundcovers.

Most of the native grasses and forbs (wildflowers) originally found in the prairies in the Midwest have deep and tough roots, making them excellent choices for erosion prevention on a sunny slope. There is a long list of these natives that includes wildflowers such as coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, yarrows and many others. Non-native ornamentals like hostas, ferns and lilies can also be used, some for shaded areas.

Many types of groundcovers are beneficial, native and non-native. Most are evergreen and some spread vigorously. Plants such as vinca minor, liriope, Mondo grass, wintercreeper euonymus, ajuga and English ivy all are spreaders that tolerate shade and sun. These may have invasive problems if not controlled, but their hardiness and deep roots may be exactly what is needed on a hillside.

Low-growing shrubs are also useful. Short shrubs found in the juniper family, low-growing sumacs such as the cutleaf and Gro-low varieties are worth considering. There are varieties of forsythia that are short and might be considered as well as others.

After planting all your choices, add a thick layer of mulch between them. This will help keep out weeds and conserve water.

Remember, there are many more plants that would be practical on a slope. Decide what you have in terms of soil and sunshine, make a plan as to design and plant selection. Most slopes are manageable with thoughtful design.

Garden tips

§  August is a good month to start a fall vegetable garden. Bush beans, cucumbers and summer squash can be replanted for another crop. Beets, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, lettuce and other cool-season crops can also be planted at this time.

§  Discontinue deadheading roses by mid-August to help initiate winter hardiness.

§  Irrigated warm-season lawns such as Bermuda and zoysia can be fertilized once again; apply 1 pound N/1,000 square feet this month. Do not fertilize these grasses after the end of August. Do not fertilize tall fescue lawns in summer; fertilize in late September after it cools and again in November.

§  This time of the year is generally not the best time to prune, but if you have damage to trees and shrubs due to storms, prune out the damage now.

§  During peak heat of summer is not the best time to use post-emergent herbicides for broad-leaved weeds. For these herbicides to be effective, the weeds needs to be growing. Weeds will start to grow when it cools in early fall.

Landscaping Slopes

Master Gardener: Landscaping on a slope is manageable with thoughtful design

Bill Sevier:  Ask a Master Gardener   

Saturday, August 20, 2016  

Q: I am trying to control water run-off and erosion on a slope in my front yard next to the street. Is there a best plant and a best way to do this? W.W., Sand Springs

A: The short answer is no. There are no easy generic solutions for slopes, and the solutions that are effective are not the same for each slope type.

Inclined areas of landscapes can have devastating erosive damage with extensive soil loss. So it is important to do what you can to stabilize these areas to simply prevent loss of your topsoil, if nothing else.

All slopes are not equal, they vary by degree of slope, soil texture and fertility, as well as amounts of sunlight received. All these factors, as well as cost and amount of effort required on your part, must be considered when creating a landscaping plan. One approach is costly and labor intensive. This consists of building tiers of various materials step-wise with drainage to handle the water flow.

When starting with bare soil, such as often found with new houses before any landscaping or planting, temporary measures can be used. These can include such things as blankets of burlap, jute, biodegradable plastic, or a temporary nurse crop of rapidly growing grass such as annual rye grass to stabilize the soil. All of these are biodegradable.

What to plant permanently on the slope to prevent erosion is the main decision to make. There are no “best” plants to use. Lawn grasses, such as Bermuda and fescue, are not the best choices; they are not nearly as effective as a mixture of perennials, shrubs, native plants and various groundcovers.

Most of the native grasses and forbs (wildflowers) originally found in the prairies in the Midwest have deep and tough roots, making them excellent choices for erosion prevention on a sunny slope. There is a long list of these natives that includes wildflowers such as coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, yarrows and many others. Non-native ornamentals like hostas, ferns and lilies can also be used, some for shaded areas.

Many types of groundcovers are beneficial, native and non-native. Most are evergreen and some spread vigorously. Plants such as vinca minor, liriope, Mondo grass, wintercreeper euonymus, ajuga and English ivy all are spreaders that tolerate shade and sun. These may have invasive problems if not controlled, but their hardiness and deep roots may be exactly what is needed on a hillside.

Low-growing shrubs are also useful. Short shrubs found in the juniper family, low-growing sumacs such as the cutleaf and Gro-low varieties are worth considering. There are varieties of forsythia that are short and might be considered as well as others.

After planting all your choices, add a thick layer of mulch between them. This will help keep out weeds and conserve water.

Remember, there are many more plants that would be practical on a slope. Decide what you have in terms of soil and sunshine, make a plan as to design and plant selection. Most slopes are manageable with thoughtful design.

Garden tips

§  August is a good month to start a fall vegetable garden. Bush beans, cucumbers and summer squash can be replanted for another crop. Beets, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, lettuce and other cool-season crops can also be planted at this time.

§  Discontinue deadheading roses by mid-August to help initiate winter hardiness.

§  Irrigated warm-season lawns such as Bermuda and zoysia can be fertilized once again; apply 1 pound N/1,000 square feet this month. Do not fertilize these grasses after the end of August. Do not fertilize tall fescue lawns in summer; fertilize in late September after it cools and again in November.

§  This time of the year is generally not the best time to prune, but if you have damage to trees and shrubs due to storms, prune out the damage now.

§  During peak heat of summer is not the best time to use post-emergent herbicides for broad-leaved weeds. For these herbicides to be effective, the weeds needs to be growing. Weeds will start to grow when it cools in early fall.

Landscaping Slopes

Master Gardener: Landscaping on a slope is manageable with thoughtful design

Bill Sevier:  Ask a Master Gardener   

Saturday, August 20, 2016  

Q: I am trying to control water run-off and erosion on a slope in my front yard next to the street. Is there a best plant and a best way to do this? W.W., Sand Springs

A: The short answer is no. There are no easy generic solutions for slopes, and the solutions that are effective are not the same for each slope type.

Inclined areas of landscapes can have devastating erosive damage with extensive soil loss. So it is important to do what you can to stabilize these areas to simply prevent loss of your topsoil, if nothing else.

All slopes are not equal, they vary by degree of slope, soil texture and fertility, as well as amounts of sunlight received. All these factors, as well as cost and amount of effort required on your part, must be considered when creating a landscaping plan. One approach is costly and labor intensive. This consists of building tiers of various materials step-wise with drainage to handle the water flow.

When starting with bare soil, such as often found with new houses before any landscaping or planting, temporary measures can be used. These can include such things as blankets of burlap, jute, biodegradable plastic, or a temporary nurse crop of rapidly growing grass such as annual rye grass to stabilize the soil. All of these are biodegradable.

What to plant permanently on the slope to prevent erosion is the main decision to make. There are no “best” plants to use. Lawn grasses, such as Bermuda and fescue, are not the best choices; they are not nearly as effective as a mixture of perennials, shrubs, native plants and various groundcovers.

Most of the native grasses and forbs (wildflowers) originally found in the prairies in the Midwest have deep and tough roots, making them excellent choices for erosion prevention on a sunny slope. There is a long list of these natives that includes wildflowers such as coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, yarrows and many others. Non-native ornamentals like hostas, ferns and lilies can also be used, some for shaded areas.

Many types of groundcovers are beneficial, native and non-native. Most are evergreen and some spread vigorously. Plants such as vinca minor, liriope, Mondo grass, wintercreeper euonymus, ajuga and English ivy all are spreaders that tolerate shade and sun. These may have invasive problems if not controlled, but their hardiness and deep roots may be exactly what is needed on a hillside.

Low-growing shrubs are also useful. Short shrubs found in the juniper family, low-growing sumacs such as the cutleaf and Gro-low varieties are worth considering. There are varieties of forsythia that are short and might be considered as well as others.

After planting all your choices, add a thick layer of mulch between them. This will help keep out weeds and conserve water.

Remember, there are many more plants that would be practical on a slope. Decide what you have in terms of soil and sunshine, make a plan as to design and plant selection. Most slopes are manageable with thoughtful design.

Garden tips

§  August is a good month to start a fall vegetable garden. Bush beans, cucumbers and summer squash can be replanted for another crop. Beets, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, lettuce and other cool-season crops can also be planted at this time.

§  Discontinue deadheading roses by mid-August to help initiate winter hardiness.

§  Irrigated warm-season lawns such as Bermuda and zoysia can be fertilized once again; apply 1 pound N/1,000 square feet this month. Do not fertilize these grasses after the end of August. Do not fertilize tall fescue lawns in summer; fertilize in late September after it cools and again in November.

§  This time of the year is generally not the best time to prune, but if you have damage to trees and shrubs due to storms, prune out the damage now.

§  During peak heat of summer is not the best time to use post-emergent herbicides for broad-leaved weeds. For these herbicides to be effective, the weeds needs to be growing. Weeds will start to grow when it cools in early fall.

Landscaping Slopes

Master Gardener: Landscaping on a slope is manageable with thoughtful design

Bill Sevier:  Ask a Master Gardener   

Saturday, August 20, 2016  

Q: I am trying to control water run-off and erosion on a slope in my front yard next to the street. Is there a best plant and a best way to do this? W.W., Sand Springs

A: The short answer is no. There are no easy generic solutions for slopes, and the solutions that are effective are not the same for each slope type.

Inclined areas of landscapes can have devastating erosive damage with extensive soil loss. So it is important to do what you can to stabilize these areas to simply prevent loss of your topsoil, if nothing else.

All slopes are not equal, they vary by degree of slope, soil texture and fertility, as well as amounts of sunlight received. All these factors, as well as cost and amount of effort required on your part, must be considered when creating a landscaping plan. One approach is costly and labor intensive. This consists of building tiers of various materials step-wise with drainage to handle the water flow.

When starting with bare soil, such as often found with new houses before any landscaping or planting, temporary measures can be used. These can include such things as blankets of burlap, jute, biodegradable plastic, or a temporary nurse crop of rapidly growing grass such as annual rye grass to stabilize the soil. All of these are biodegradable.

What to plant permanently on the slope to prevent erosion is the main decision to make. There are no “best” plants to use. Lawn grasses, such as Bermuda and fescue, are not the best choices; they are not nearly as effective as a mixture of perennials, shrubs, native plants and various groundcovers.

Most of the native grasses and forbs (wildflowers) originally found in the prairies in the Midwest have deep and tough roots, making them excellent choices for erosion prevention on a sunny slope. There is a long list of these natives that includes wildflowers such as coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, yarrows and many others. Non-native ornamentals like hostas, ferns and lilies can also be used, some for shaded areas.

Many types of groundcovers are beneficial, native and non-native. Most are evergreen and some spread vigorously. Plants such as vinca minor, liriope, Mondo grass, wintercreeper euonymus, ajuga and English ivy all are spreaders that tolerate shade and sun. These may have invasive problems if not controlled, but their hardiness and deep roots may be exactly what is needed on a hillside.

Low-growing shrubs are also useful. Short shrubs found in the juniper family, low-growing sumacs such as the cutleaf and Gro-low varieties are worth considering. There are varieties of forsythia that are short and might be considered as well as others.

After planting all your choices, add a thick layer of mulch between them. This will help keep out weeds and conserve water.

Remember, there are many more plants that would be practical on a slope. Decide what you have in terms of soil and sunshine, make a plan as to design and plant selection. Most slopes are manageable with thoughtful design.

Garden tips

§  August is a good month to start a fall vegetable garden. Bush beans, cucumbers and summer squash can be replanted for another crop. Beets, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, lettuce and other cool-season crops can also be planted at this time.

§  Discontinue deadheading roses by mid-August to help initiate winter hardiness.

§  Irrigated warm-season lawns such as Bermuda and zoysia can be fertilized once again; apply 1 pound N/1,000 square feet this month. Do not fertilize these grasses after the end of August. Do not fertilize tall fescue lawns in summer; fertilize in late September after it cools and again in November.

§  This time of the year is generally not the best time to prune, but if you have damage to trees and shrubs due to storms, prune out the damage now.

§  During peak heat of summer is not the best time to use post-emergent herbicides for broad-leaved weeds. For these herbicides to be effective, the weeds needs to be growing. Weeds will start to grow when it cools in early fall.

Reseeding Fescue Lawns in Fall

Use these tips to keep fescue healthy in summer heat

Brian Jervis: Ask a Master Gardener   

Monday, August 15, 2016 12:00 am

Q: Every summer some of my fescue dies and I have to reseed. Any way to prevent this? How do I reseed and what seed is the best? G.H., Tulsa

A: Each year at this time issues with repairing the summer’s heat damage to tall fescue lawns

commonly arises. This is because we live in a transition zone of turf grasses, we grow both warm season and cool season grasses and each would prefer to be grown either farther south or farther north.

Fescue grows best at moderate temperatures and prefers spring and fall where it performs ideally. When summer comes, even well-irrigated tall fescue often is beset with both heat damage and a fungus called “brown spot,” causing death of some fescue, which then needs reseeding.

Reseeding of tall fescue may be done in either spring or fall, but fall is by far the best. Spring-seeded fescue usually does not have enough time to establish a mature supporting root system to tolerate the stress of summer, whereas if sown in fall it does. It is recommended that tall fescue ideally be reseeded from mid-September to mid-October.

As far as how to reseed, there are several steps involved. Detailed information is available in the Master Gardener’s office in Tulsa or online.

An important part of this process is selecting the seed. OSU feels that there is no one best fescue seed. They strongly recommend that a blend of three or more fescues be planted, with or without a mix of Kentucky bluegrass. These combinations use the strength of one variety to offset the weaknesses of another.

Steps for reseeding fescue lawns

1. For existing lawns, identify and correct factors causing poor performance. Start with a soil test to see what nutrients and soil acidity corrections may be needed.

2. Make a decision as to what type of seed you wish to plant, purchase beforehand.

3. Buy a “starter” fertilizer, best based on soil test. Use only nutrients needed. Do not use a fertilizer containing phosphorus unless a soil test indicates a need.

4. Remove undesirable grasses and weeds.

5. Loosen the soil by hand or machine and add fertilizer and organic compost as needed. This step is important.

6. Sow the proper amount of seed to get good coverage, avoid excess seeding. More is not better.

7. Irrigate as needed to keep top of soil constantly moist until seedlings are 2 inches tall.

8. After 2 inches in height has been reached, irrigate less often and more deeply.

9. Mow with a sharp-bladed mower when 3 inches tall.

10. If needed, control broadleaved weeds with a 2,4-D type herbicide after third mowing.

To minimize loss of fescue next summer, obtain the Master Gardeners information sheets on lawn care and follow recommendations about watering, fertilization and mowing. Another useful document is OSU fact sheet HLA-6419, “Establishing a Lawn in Oklahoma.”

For readers interested in exploring the performance of fescue varieties determined by OSU, go online and search for “Oklahoma State, Current Report 6602.”

Garden tips

§  Fertilization of warm-season grasses can continue if water is present for growth. Do not fertilize Bermuda or zoysia lawns after the end of August. Do not fertilize fescue lawns until it cools off in September.

§  Establishment of warm-season grasses such as Bermuda and zoysia by sodding or sprigging should be completed by this time to ensure the least risk of winter kill.

§  Mowing heights for cool-season turf grasses should be at 3 inches during hot, dry summer months. Gradually raise mowing height of Bermuda lawns from 1½ to 2 inches.

§  Cucumbers may be bitter this time of year and vines quit producing. This is due to the heat. If you are able to get the vines through the summer, after it cools, they will be fertile again and the taste of the cucumbers will improve.

Tulsa Master Gardeners Recruiting New Class for 2016

Master Gardeners to hold training program

Brian Jervis: Ask a Master Gardener

Saturday, August 6, 2016

If you enjoy gardening, learning about gardening and have an enthusiasm for sharing your knowledge with others — the OSU Tulsa County Master Gardener program may be for you.

The Tulsa Master Gardener program is part of the Tulsa OSU Extension Service and is involved in horticultural education activities for Tulsa-area homeowners. OSU Extension Offices are located in each county in the state and most counties have a Master Gardener program.

The training program for new Master Gardeners is offered once yearly beginning in September. For those interested in the program, two orientation sessions will be held at the Tulsa County OSU Extension Center, 4116 E. 15th St. The first is at 10 a.m. Wednesday and the second session is at 1 p.m. Aug. 17. The orientations last approximately an hour and provide an overview of Master Gardener programs and requirements for participation. No reservation is needed.

Following orientation, those interested can schedule a follow-up interview. Once you are accepted into the program, classes begin the first Wednesday in September and continue every Wednesday through mid-December.

More than 70 hours of instruction are offered by OSU faculty and extension horticulturists. A wide range of basic information is covered on topics such as lawns, ornamental trees and shrubs, annual and perennial flowers, insect and disease management, soils and plant nutrition, vegetable gardening, organic gardening and much more. These classes will give you a good background in horticulture and prepare you to confidently deal with most gardening problems.

Education continues via monthly meetings and periodic OSU-sponsored seminars.

In addition to learning many new and interesting things about gardening, you will be introduced to a network of more than 350 current Tulsa County Master Gardeners and many more statewide. This always is a source of many new and interesting friends.

What Master Gardeners do:

·       Telephone helpline: Every weekday, Master Gardeners answer a telephone helpline with additional service for walk-ins. They assist homeowners with diagnosing plant problems and recommending solutions. This involves several thousand contacts per year.

·       Elementary school programs: Master Gardeners visit hundreds of elementary classrooms each year to teach more than 11,000 students, in grades K-5 about gardening.

·       Demonstration garden: Located at the OSU Extension Center, the garden contains hundreds of interesting varieties of labeled plants.

·       Senior citizens: More than 25 retirement homes are visited several times per year, interacting with more than 1,000 senior citizens.

·       Community events: Master Gardeners participate in many community events yearly, such as the Home Builders Association of Greater Tulsa’s Home and Garden show in the spring.

·       Habitat for Humanity: All new homes in the Tulsa area are landscaped by Master Gardeners, and owners are taught about plant care.

·       Bedding Plant Sale and Garden Tours: Both these events are important events for the program. They allow us to be financially self-sufficient and funds all of our community educational activities.

·       Website and newsletter: The educational website and an online monthly newsletter have extensive useful information for homeowners.

No previous horticultural training or education is required to be accepted into the Master Gardener program — training starts with the basics. Come to the orientation and learn about the program. It may be the perfect fit for your volunteer activity. For additional information, go to our website at tulsamastergardeners.org.