Planting Trees and
Shrubs in Fall is Best
Tom Ingram: Ask a
Master Gardener
Tuesday, October 10,
2017
Q: I’ve heard fall is
the best time to plant trees and shrubs. Is this true? LK
A: In some ways, this may
seem counter-intuitive, but fall is indeed the best time to plant most trees
and shrubs. The reason for this is that trees and shrubs planted at this time
have the fall, winter and spring to develop a healthy root system before our Oklahoma
summer arrives.
The best way to help a
young tree or shrub acclimate to its new home is to dig the hole two to three
times the diameter of the root ball and no deeper than the root ball itself. If
you have hard clay soil, you should plant trees and shrubs 1-2 inches above
grade. For sandy soils, plant at grade level.
Plan on keeping a 4-
to 6-foot grass-free mulched circle around young trees or shrubs for at least
2-3 years. This mulch should be 2-4 inches deep. Be sure to use some kind of
organic mulch, such as compost, bark, grass clippings or straw. Do not use
plastic under the mulch to prevent weeds, as this will limit your tree’s or
shrub’s access to water.
New trees and shrubs
have a limited ability to utilize fertilizer until they have an established
root system, therefore, fertilization is often not recommended at the time of
planting. Optimally, young trees and shrubs can be fertilized from March through
July. But, before adding fertilizer, we recommend you get a soil test from the
OSU Extension so you know which elements are needed in your soil.
On average, young
trees and shrubs need 1 inch of water per week whether this comes from rain or
hand watering. In dry conditions, newly planted trees and shrubs may need to be
watered 2-3 times per week as their root systems have not developed to the
point where they can replenish the water they are losing through their leaves.
Some young trees will
need to be staked if top heavy or planted in windy areas. If this is the case,
use only the quantity of stakes necessary and leave it a little bit of room to
move, as this is how the trunk develops strength. When stakes are left in place
longer than 2 years, the tree’s ability to stand on its own will be
compromised.
Young trees with thin
bark, such as ash, birch, linden or maple, should have their trunks wrapped
with a paper tree wrap during winter for the first two years if they are
exposed to the southwest winter sun. The heating and cooling by the sun during
winter can cause bark damage from which the tree never recovers.
We have quite a bit of
information at our Diagnostic Center on varieties of trees and shrubs that do
well in our area. Give us a call or drop by; we would love to help you find the
perfect addition to your home.
Garden tips
·
Plant cool-season
annuals like pansies, ornamental cabbage or kale, snapdragons and dusty miller
when temperatures begin to cool.
·
Prune trees or shrubs
anytime there are dead or diseased limbs. Do not perform routine pruning now.
Pruning before winter dormancy may stimulate new growth sensitive to the cold.
Fall pruning also removes energy stores needed for winter survival. Prune
summer-blooming plants in late winter before spring growth starts, and prune
spring-blooming plants after blooming is completed.
·
Continue to replant or
establish cool-season lawns like fescue. Mow and neatly edge warm-season
grasses before the first killing frost.
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