Problems Growing Tomatoes
Brian Jervis: As A
Master Gardener
Tuesday, June 27, 2017
Q: What is wrong with
my tomatoes? They were doing OK, but now blossoms are dropping off before I get
fruit. Also, some tomatoes are splitting and plants have yellow or curling
leaves. Martha H., Tulsa
A: These are all common
issues that Oklahoma tomato growers face.
The actual fruit comes
from proper pollination of the blossoms, but when successful pollination does
not occur, the blossoms die and fall off. This is commonly known as “blossom
drop.” Weather is the chief cause of inadequate pollination in garden-grown
tomatoes, with the most important factor being temperature.
Effective pollination
does not occur once night temperatures are outside the range of 55-70 degrees or
if daytime temperatures are consistently higher than 92 degrees, especially if
it is windy. Too much rain or too high or low humidity are additional weather
factors that reduce pollen fertility. Over application of nitrogen fertilizer
also leads to blossom drop, as well as tall, lanky plants.
Tomato fruit splits,
rots or develops blemishes for several reasons. The most common cause of
tomatoes rotting before they ripen is “blossom end rot,” which is caused by a
calcium deficiency in the plant. Overwatering, either from nature or the
gardener, is the most common cause, rather than the lack of calcium in the
soil.
Skin splitting is also
caused by plants going from too little to too much water. Be consistent about
watering. Mulch plants to provide consistent moisture at the root level, but do
not mulch against the plant itself as it can lead to diseases.
Avoid splashing soil
upon the plant and onto tomato fruits, as this carries related fungi and
bacterial diseases. Instead, either use a soaker or drip irrigation system or
carefully water at the base of the plants. Avoid damaging tender roots by not
hoeing too closely to the plants.
There are several
reasons that cause yellowing of leaves. It could either be from a small pest
called a spider mite, from a fungal leaf disease, or from stress caused from
either over or under watering. Check the soil to see if it is overly wet or dry
before moving onto the other causes. Just like your lawn, water plants
thoroughly (6-8 inches deep) to encourage tomato roots to seek water and
nutrients deep in the soil. With an extensive deep root system, the plants will
hold up better during dry spells.
Garden tips
·
Mulch ornamentals,
vegetables and annuals. This reduces soil crusting, cools soil and conserves
moisture during hot summer months. Mulch also helps prevent weeds and reduces
likelihood of mechanical damage from lawn equipment. Mulching will reduce about
70 percent of the summer yard maintenance.
·
A disease called
“fireblight” is prevalent now. It may infect more than 100 plants in the rose
family but especially apples, crabapples, pears, quince and pyracantha. The
bacterial disease is spread by insects and rain and enters the plant through
open blossoms. Once infected, the leaves on the involved limb turn brown and
the limb dies. The only treatment is to remove the dead limbs. An antibiotic
spray can be helpful but only during full bloom and only used to prevent the
disease. Some trees are more susceptible than others, consideration should be
given to planting disease-resistant varieties.
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